Day 19--Kalocsa to Mohacs, Hungary

SZekszard red wine

Sunday, July13, 2008
Kalocsa to Mohacs, Hungary
Distance: 112 km (70 miles)

X+--We pedal through the lowlands north of the confluence of the Drava and Danube Rivers today, and through Danube-Drava National Park, a marshy area near the border with Croatia. Szekszard is famous for it strong red wines. Mohacs, where we will be tonight, was the site of an important battle against the Turks in 1526 when the Ottomans defeated the Hungarian army and began a century and a half occupation of the region.

Today’s route sees us taking a ferry at the beginning and at the end of the route to take advantage of the better pedaling on the other side of the river.

Preparing to board the ferry; Steffie supplying Rod and Bob--two ardent admirers of this indefatigable
woman --with water; after yesterday trials with the heat Steffie realizes that riders might have a  tough day in the heat

The van and riders aboard the little ferry

Despite the fact that we are on a long stretch of pretty featureless terrain, we are blessed with a pretty good cycling day, cloud cover early in the morning, some good shade, and a mild headwind in the am. By afternoon the headwind had strengthened and the temps had risen into the 100s, but I’m acclimated to OK heat and wind, so managed. When it’s hot, I go like a shot to get out of the sun and in as early as possible.

We started by riding 6 km to a small ferry which took us to the other side of the river where Peter had found paved roads and tracks. The roads were heaved and dished as usual, but still much faster than the tracks. We did one section of paved levee and then more roads and eventually found ourselves on an unpaved levee with large gravel. We rode this seemingly endless, mind-and hand-numbing, bumpy track for about 8 km (5 miles). Then it finally turned to pavement . . .for a short while, and then turned back to large stone and gravel. When I finally got off it, I thanked the lord that it was over. Tough on the bottom and hands and feet.

Gravel portions of today's endless levee trail--straight as an arrow, little protection from the sun, and little to see 

Trailside sights today

A red pump--good for washing and natives, but not for drinking or tourists; laden elderberry bushes along the track

There were no sights along the way, so I rode fast today to get in early and out of the sun. Judy rode with Harold and Carolyn. I got in at 1 am, and they got in at 5 pm. This is why I wish Judy would ride with Carolyn and Harold or whoever is the tail of the dog.

When I got to the ferry to Mohacs, I was alone. I waited with a Hungarian bicyclist on a bench in the shade. He pointed me to a little kiosk where I bought my ticket. When the ferry docked, he led me onto it. When it docked on the other side, he led me up the steep slope to the road and invited me to have something to eat with him. I thanked him but said goodbye and picked up the arrows to Pannon Hotel.

Ferry to Mohacs

The hotel was on the corner and enclosed by a high wall. When I tried to enter what appeared to be the front door, it was locked and no one responded. I circled the high stucco wall around the hotel and came to a gate with a keypad and instructions, but no one came. I knew this was the right spot because I could see the van through the wrought iron gate. Eventually the caretaker came and opened the gate. The room is lovely, overlooking a courtyard.

Our hotel and its courtyard

We ate dinner that evening in a restaurant around the corner from the hotel. At dinner we said goodbye to Peter.

At the dinner table; Steffie with her fans Bob and Ron

Observations:

       - I saw wild pig along the track.

       - It was 40C today—104 degrees!

 - With the application of Barbara’s Dura Screen, my face and mouth have finally healed and I look and feel much better. Yea!





Goodbye to our Hungarian guide, Peter, here  attired in his everyday riding clothes and, of course, no helmet.