Day 6--Ingolstadt to Regensburg, Germany

Over the river & through the woods

Monday, June 30, 2008  

Ingolstadt to Regensburg, Germany
Distance: 89 km (55.30 miles)

X+: Regensburg, located at the confluence of the Danube and Regen rivers, at the northernmost bend in the Danube is, perhaps, the most historic city we bicycle through until we get to Vienna. It was a Roman outpost under Marcus Aurelius in 179 AD and marks both the northernmost point of the Roman Empire in Germany and the northernmost extent of the Danube. Its medieval city center is wonderfully preserved and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

A wonderful day of riding, but I was on the road for longer than I liked because I felt obliged to wait for Judy. At every hill and turn she is uncertain or gets off her bike.

We started out on a gravel lane atop the levee on the north side of the river. The final kilometer or so of this was very tough and rough single-track through overgrown trailside bushes. We finally walked our bikes up the last bit and came out on a paved road intersection with a bridge to our right over the river. We could find no arrows so backtracked until we came upon Harold and Carolyn picking their way along. The four of us returned to the paved road, and with much searching finally found the X+ arrow coming across the bridge! That’s the route the van took so they were not thinking of us emerging from the “track.” How Philipp and Stefania thought we’d go up on the bridge and see the arrow I don’t know. Anyhow, from there we sailed up a long, smooth climb with the wind at our backs and protected by shade trees. Sweet!

We rode on roads and shady tracks all day, and our route was short—only 89 km or about 55 miles.

At about 43 km we took a ferry for a beautiful, short ride down the Danube where it narrows between high walls. It was very refreshing and fun to relax and see the birds and wildlife and to enjoy the quiet and soothing glide down the Danube. We could look to the cliff tops and see castle ruins and the huge Walhalla (Hall of Fame) commissioned by King Ludwig I, and Befreiungshalle (Hall of Freedom) commemorating victories against Napoleon.

Ferry to Kelheim; a beautiful, relaxing part of our day

King Ludwig's huge Hall of Freedom

Our 20-minute ferry ride ended at Kelheim, which is located where two Bavarian rivers, the Altmühl and Donau meet. After the canal was finished between the river Main and the Donau, Kelheim became an important European water road. Ships with freight from everywhere in the world now bring trade to the town.

Kelheim city gate and buildings on the square

Regensburg is a town with a 2000 year old history. It has narrow streets, very old but well preserved buildings and houses, and, of course, the Regensburg Cathedral (Kathedrale St Peter or Regensburger Dom). They were working on the front entranceway, but we entered it briefly anyway. I’m beginning to think ABC (another bloody church), a phrase Judy says tourists pick up when touring Europe. So will you before you are finished reading this travelog.

Regensburg Cathedral steeples and front entranceway; The cathedral  could be entered despite the scaffolding

Regensburg Cathedral detail

However, the cathedrals are such a testament to human toil and devotion. Many of these huge cathedrals, churches, and monasteries were built on blood, sweat and tears. But so was the Great Wall of China, the Pyramids, and many of the world’s man-made wonders. If one thinks about it, it is strange that these religious buildings are nowadays seen as romantic tourist attractions.

On entering Regensburg, we easily found our hotel. We’re staying at the Hotel Münchner Hof right in the middle of Old Town, on a narrow medieval street that was once the neighborhood of the "triflers," those who offered “trifles” for sale there in the middle ages. The hotel is an ancient building listed as an historical monument. It has gothic ceilings, old wooden floors and archways, and rooms with individual histories: renaissance, baroque, gothic. Originally the Hotel Münchner Hof was known as Gaststätte zur weißen Traube (Guesthouse of the White Grape) and was built in 1822. It has been called "Münchner Hof" (Munich's yard) since 1896, its name reminiscent of  "Munich's brewery,” which still delivers the beer to its restaurant.

I know I turn impatient and short when I am hot and tired, so it is really best that we do not ride together on long hot days. Today was short, shady, and fairly comfortable, however, and I am proud of myself. I managed to rein myself in and stuck with Judy all day today. The two of us got in at 2 pm . We immediately went to cathedral square and “fed our muscles” lunch/dinner with a huge hamburger and fries. Then we returned to our room, showered, and washed out our clothes. Judy’s no longer angry. Kind of. 

Me at the restaurant where we enjoyed our hamburgers; Judy at a bakery

Observations:

- Road and trailside were lined with chicory, flax, and Queen Anne’s, lace.

- We passed our first fields of hops, growing on high vines.

- Since Day 2 we have been plagued by tiny beetles that flock only to white and yellow. They cover our clothes. I had to put away my screaming yellow vest, which I’d worn on cool mornings.